Moorea or Mo’orea is a volcanic island in French Polynesia. Its name comes from the Tahitian word Mo’ore’a, which means „yellow lizard“. This beautiful island is often seen as the little sister of Tahiti as it is located only ten nautical miles from Tahiti. It is one of the top honeymoon destinations after Bora Bora.
With its eight mountain peaks rising from the lagoon and the typical Tahitian lifestyle, Moorea is one of the favorite destinations in French Polynesia. It is the best destination for hiking in French Polynesia. No other island has so many official marked hiking routes. All of their mountains are covered with green vegetation, which gives a very beautiful contrast to the turquoise bright sea from the lagoon.
The best travel time in Moorea is considered to be the dry season, which goes from March to late November. Nonetheless it can also rain during that season, which will turn the trails very slippery and muddy. Weather can change very quickly in French Polynesia, which makes it very difficult to plan activities.
Moorea is one of the few places in the world where you have the chance to swim with humpback whales in their natural environment. You can either book a normal tour or a private swim tour. You have to be conscient that it is at no point guaranteed that you will see humpback whales. Those are free animals and they show up whenever they want to. This activity is absolutely seasonal. Humpback whales season is from July to late November and the best months to see those incredible animals goes from mid August to the end of October.
The private humpback whale swim tour, is accompanied by a marine biologist and cameraman, which knows almost everything about those animals. The tour starts either at 7:30 or 13:30 and takes around 4 hours. A team will pick you up from your hotel dock.
Basically the tour starts with driving out on the sea. I have to admit that I was really afraid of being in the wide ocean with not seeing what’s under me. It is a really strange feeling, not only because of all the horror movies playing in the ocean, the only thing you see is dark.
As it is not guaranteed that you will see whales, the crew has to drive a little bit around in the sea. The animals are moving and not constantly on the same spot. So basically once the staff sees an exhalation (the blow of the whale) on the sea, they drive in that direction, but not too close. When they are sure that the situation is good and safe enough, they will provide you with flippers and you have to put your diving mask on. And then you will jump into the wide open sea. The guide is constantly next to you and he will show you in which direction you have to look.
Once you are in the water and see those beautiful and big animals coming straight in your direction is really impressive but also scary. It is really an unforgettable memory, which is definitely worth it. Those big animals are kind of floating in the water and seem very elegant. Two of them were diving so close to us that you could look in their eyes.
The Pass of the Three Coconuts is one of the most famous hikes on Moorea and therefor also very touristy. It starts at the Belvedere Lookout, where you will have an incredible view over the most known bays on Moorea, the Cook Bay and the Opunohu Bay and Mount Rotui in the middle.
The hike started with a moderate hike along a part of the crater to the edge of the volcanic funnel. It continues to the trail to the Three Coconuts. This trail will lead you to one of the most scenic views I’ve ever had. You will have a panoramic view on the ancient volcano. It is the highest point of Mount Mou’aroa and also called the sharks tooth. The peak was covered half in clouds, which turned it into a very mystic and spectacular scenery. This was also the turnaround point.
Although the hike is called Pass of the Three Coconuts, don’t look for three coconut trees. Two of them were blown away during a cyclone in the early 1980s.
During the hike, you discover a lot of plants, trees and animals, which are all living and growing on the island and in that climate. The guide will show you some fruits that you can eat but which are also eaten by animals. You will encounter a lot of chicken, which are living their best life in the wilderness of Moorea.
The hike itself is not that difficult. It is a moderate walk with some elevation gaining. But the tropical climate will be the challenge. At least if you are not used to the heat and humidity. I have to admit that the constant heat and the high humidity affected my level of fitness. Nonetheless, the hiking trail is absolutely worth it.
Beside all the hiking trails, Moorea is also ideal for 4×4 vehicles. The advantages of a 4×4 Safari Tour is that you an explore more of the island in a little time because you are mobil. It is great to discover the beauty of Moorea by hiking, but the Safari Tour in a vehicle allows to discover more of it.
The 4×4 Safari Tour starts at Cook Bay. Unfortunately the weather was not that great that day but showed another beauty of the island. Our driver continued the drive again to the Belvedere Lookout. This one was completely different than the day before. But is was still magical.
The first stop on the tour was a cultural estate in the middle of nature called Opunohu. There are different old religious and agricultural sites. The main marae is called Ti-irua and is composed of a 40 meters long and 17 meters wide wall made out of block of stones.
Although it is an old abandoned site, there are some inhabitants living there. The guide showed us how you can attract all the chicken by opening some nuts for them. They really enjoy getting feed by people and are not afraid of tourists. Another species living there, is a giant snail.
Another highlight of the tour is the stop at the Agricultural College where you discover where you can discover the vanilla plants, banana fields and even a pineapple field. The guide explains all about how difficult it is to make vanilla grow in French Polynesia. The Tahiti-Vanilla is one of the most expensive spices in the world. Mostly because there exists no more wild vanilla plants in Tahiti. Growing a vanilla plant is an extremely intensive labour process.
The last stop on the tour is a juice factory named Manutea. Basically it is a shop where you can taste and buy a lot of different juices and rums.
I have to admit that getting inked in Moorea is not like getting inked like you use to know it! But there is a first time for everything. The traditional Tahitian tattoo practice was forbidden in 1986 because of hygiene standards, but was again allowed in 2001.
James Samuela is a renowned traditional tattoo artist in French Polynesia and a direct descendant of some of the first tattoo artists in the Marquesas. He studied for 5 years in Paris and worked as a tattoo artist in France, Spain, Switzerland and also in the United States. Having all that background, he returned to Moorea, where he is currently one of the the only tattoo artista in French Polynesia who practice the traditional art of tatau.
The traditional Tahitian tattoo practice was invented by the ancestors. The word tattoo comes originally from the Tahitian word tautau, which was the sound made by tattooing. It is not made with a machine, but with a comb with approximately 20 needled made out of a shark’s teeth or bones. This comb is placed on the skin.
Then the artist tap with a second wooden stick on the stick with the needles. Basically you need two people to do the tattoo, one who stretches the skin and one who is doing the actual tattoo.
Read next: Top 10 things to do in Banff National Park, Canada